/* Layout: a travel notebook — loose headline, scribbled city switcher, taped map on the left, journal entries with polaroids on the right. Few boxes. Light only. */
:root{
  color-scheme:light;
  --paper:#FAF4E8; --sheet:#FFFDF7; --ink:#3F2116; --muted:#8C6F60; --rule:#E7D9C6; --tape:rgba(255,209,59,.55); --tape2:rgba(255,143,163,.5);
  --lantern:#F14E24; --shinkansen:#1D52A0; --mochi:#FF8FA3; --wasabi:#88B44A; --yuzu:#FFD13B;
  --land:#FFFBF2; --water:#D3E4F2; --park:#E1EDCB; --hill:#EBF0DC;
  --food:#E8A800; --coffee:#9A6233; --experience:#7B5EA7; --shrine:var(--lantern); --views:var(--shinkansen); --shop:#E8607A; --gem:#6E9A33;
  --display:"Bagel Fat One","Arial Rounded MT Bold",system-ui,sans-serif;
  --hand:"Gaegu","Comic Neue","Segoe Print",cursive;
  --body:"DM Sans","Segoe UI",system-ui,sans-serif;
  --jp:"Zen Maru Gothic","Hiragino Maru Gothic ProN",sans-serif;
}
*{box-sizing:border-box}
body{background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);font-family:var(--body);font-size:16px;line-height:1.6;
  padding-left:max(16px,env(safe-area-inset-left,0px));padding-right:max(16px,env(safe-area-inset-right,0px));padding-block:0 40px;overflow-x:hidden;
  background-image:url("data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' width='180' height='180'%3E%3Cfilter id='n'%3E%3CfeTurbulence type='fractalNoise' baseFrequency='.8' numOctaves='3' stitchTiles='stitch'/%3E%3CfeColorMatrix values='0 0 0 0 .25 0 0 0 0 .13 0 0 0 0 .08 0 0 0 .07 0'/%3E%3C/filter%3E%3Crect width='180' height='180' filter='url(%23n)'/%3E%3C/svg%3E")}
.wrap{max-width:1160px;margin:0 auto}
a{color:inherit}
img{max-width:100%;display:block}
:focus-visible{outline:2px dashed var(--lantern);outline-offset:4px}
.hand{font-family:var(--hand)}
.tape{position:absolute;width:90px;height:26px;background:var(--tape);transform:rotate(var(--tr,-6deg));box-shadow:0 1px 2px rgba(63,33,22,.12);z-index:3}
.tape.pink{background:var(--tape2)}

/* header */
.top{display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:16px;padding-block:22px 18px;border-bottom:1.5px dashed var(--rule)}

/* search: a taped-in index card, not a search engine box.
   Sits with the city/area/category rows — it filters the same places they do. */
.search{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;align-items:center;gap:6px 10px;padding-block:0 26px}
.search .lead{font-family:var(--hand);font-size:20px;color:var(--muted)}
.sbox{position:relative;display:flex;align-items:center;flex:1 1 240px;max-width:360px}
/* z-index: the focus transform below promotes the input into the positioned
   paint layer, which would otherwise cover this icon while you type. */
.search .mag{position:absolute;left:11px;z-index:1;width:17px;height:17px;color:var(--muted);pointer-events:none}
.search input{width:100%;font:inherit;font-size:15px;color:var(--ink);background:var(--sheet);
  border:1.5px solid var(--rule);border-radius:4px;padding:7px 30px 8px 34px;transition:border-color .15s,transform .15s}
.search input::placeholder{font-family:var(--hand);font-size:19px;color:var(--muted);opacity:1}
.search input:hover{border-color:var(--muted)}
.search input:focus{outline:none;border-color:var(--ink);transform:rotate(-.8deg)}
.qx{position:absolute;right:6px;appearance:none;background:none;border:0;cursor:pointer;color:var(--muted);
  font-size:20px;line-height:1;padding:2px 6px;border-radius:3px}
.qx:hover{color:var(--ink)}
.qres{position:absolute;top:calc(100% + 7px);left:0;right:0;z-index:40;background:var(--sheet);
  border:1.5px solid var(--ink);border-radius:5px;box-shadow:3px 4px 0 rgba(63,33,22,.13);
  max-height:min(62vh,420px);overflow-y:auto;padding:4px}
/* Both lines are clipped to one row each, so every result is the same height
   and a long Japanese name can't push the meta line out of alignment. */
.qr{display:grid;grid-template-columns:auto minmax(0,1fr);gap:2px 9px;align-items:baseline;padding:7px 9px;cursor:pointer;border-radius:4px}
.qr+.qr{border-top:1px dashed var(--rule)}
.qr>i{width:9px;height:9px;border-radius:50%;background:var(--c);grid-row:span 2;align-self:center}
.qn{font-weight:700;font-size:15px;line-height:1.3;min-width:0;white-space:nowrap;overflow:hidden;text-overflow:ellipsis}
.qn small{font-family:var(--jp);font-weight:500;font-size:12.5px;color:var(--muted);margin-left:6px}
.qn mark{background:var(--tape);color:inherit;border-radius:2px;padding:0 1px}
.qm{grid-column:2;font-size:12.5px;color:var(--muted);line-height:1.3;min-width:0;white-space:nowrap;overflow:hidden;text-overflow:ellipsis}
.qm b{font-weight:700;color:#4F7A1E}
.qr[aria-selected="true"]{background:var(--paper);outline:1.5px solid var(--ink);outline-offset:-1.5px}
.qr[aria-selected="true"] .qn mark{background:var(--yuzu)}
.qnone{margin:0;padding:10px 11px;font-family:var(--hand);font-size:19px;color:var(--muted)}
@media (max-width:760px){.sbox{max-width:none}}
.brand{display:flex;align-items:center;text-decoration:none}
.brand img{height:64px;width:auto;margin-block:-8px;transition:transform .2s}
.brand:hover img{transform:rotate(-4deg)}
@media (max-width:640px){.brand img{height:52px}}
.brand b{font-family:var(--display);font-weight:400;font-size:26px;color:var(--lantern);letter-spacing:.01em}
.brand span{font-family:var(--jp);font-weight:700;font-size:14px;color:var(--muted)}
.top nav{display:flex;gap:22px;font-weight:500;font-size:15px}
.top nav a{text-decoration:none;background-image:linear-gradient(var(--yuzu),var(--yuzu));background-size:0 40%;background-position:0 88%;background-repeat:no-repeat;transition:background-size .2s}
.top nav a:hover{background-size:100% 40%}
@media (max-width:640px){.top nav{gap:16px;font-size:14.5px}}

/* hero */
.hero{position:relative;display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1.5fr) minmax(0,1fr);gap:24px;align-items:end;padding-block:56px 40px}
@media (max-width:860px){.hero{grid-template-columns:1fr;padding-block:36px 24px}}
.kicker{font-family:var(--hand);font-size:24px;color:var(--shinkansen);transform:rotate(-2deg);display:inline-block}
.hero h1{font-family:var(--display);font-weight:400;font-size:clamp(46px,8vw,104px);line-height:.92;margin:8px 0 22px;letter-spacing:-.01em;text-wrap:balance}
.hero h1 .j{color:var(--lantern)}
.hero h1 .small{display:block;font-size:.52em;line-height:1.05;margin-top:.18em;color:var(--ink)}
.hero p{max-width:40ch;font-size:18px;margin:0}
.hero p a{color:var(--shinkansen);font-weight:700}
.hero p .turn{font-style:normal;font-family:var(--hand);font-size:24px;color:var(--lantern)}
.hero-side{position:relative;justify-self:center;width:min(100%,320px);min-height:300px}
.hero-side .cat{width:230px;transform:rotate(4deg);margin-left:auto}
.hero-side .note{position:absolute;left:-70px;bottom:-4px;font-family:var(--hand);font-size:22px;line-height:1.1;color:var(--ink);transform:rotate(-5deg);max-width:150px}
.hero-side .note svg{display:block;width:70px;height:46px;margin:-6px 0 0 70px;transform:rotate(-12deg)}
.stub{position:absolute;top:-34px;left:-40px;z-index:2;background:var(--sheet);padding:10px 14px 8px;transform:rotate(-8deg);box-shadow:0 2px 6px rgba(63,33,22,.12);font-family:var(--body);font-size:11px;letter-spacing:.12em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--muted);
  -webkit-mask:radial-gradient(circle 6px at 0 50%,#0000 98%,#000) left/51% 100% no-repeat,radial-gradient(circle 6px at 100% 50%,#0000 98%,#000) right/51% 100% no-repeat}
.stub b{display:block;font-family:var(--display);font-weight:400;font-size:22px;letter-spacing:.02em;color:var(--ink);text-transform:none}

/* cities */
.cities{display:flex;flex-wrap:nowrap;overflow-x:auto;scrollbar-width:none;align-items:center;gap:4px 14px;padding-block:18px 8px;border-top:1.5px dashed var(--rule)}
.cityb{appearance:none;background:none;border:0;cursor:pointer;color:var(--ink);font:inherit;position:relative;padding:8px 14px;text-align:left;flex:0 0 auto}
.cityb b{font-family:var(--display);font-weight:400;font-size:clamp(24px,2.8vw,34px);line-height:1;display:block;transition:color .2s}
.cityb small{font-family:var(--jp);font-weight:500;font-size:13px;color:var(--muted)}
.cityb svg{position:absolute;inset:-6px -14px -2px -14px;width:calc(100% + 28px);height:calc(100% + 8px);overflow:visible;pointer-events:none;opacity:0}
.cityb svg path{stroke:var(--lantern);stroke-width:3;fill:none;stroke-linecap:round;stroke-dasharray:520;stroke-dashoffset:520}
.cityb[aria-pressed="true"] svg{opacity:1}
.cityb[aria-pressed="true"] svg path{animation:draw .6s ease-out forwards}
.cityb[aria-pressed="false"] b{color:color-mix(in srgb,var(--ink) 35%,var(--paper))}
.cityb:hover b{color:var(--ink)}
@keyframes draw{to{stroke-dashoffset:0}}
.hop{font-family:var(--hand);font-size:18px;color:var(--muted);white-space:nowrap}

/* neighborhoods */
.areas{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px;align-items:center;padding-block:14px 2px}
.areas .lead{font-family:var(--hand);font-size:20px;color:var(--muted);margin-right:4px}
.a{appearance:none;font:inherit;cursor:pointer;color:var(--ink);background:var(--sheet);border:1.5px solid var(--rule);border-radius:4px;padding:3px 11px 4px;font-size:14.5px;font-weight:500;display:inline-flex;align-items:baseline;gap:6px;transition:background .15s,border-color .15s,transform .15s}
.a small{font-size:12px;color:var(--muted)}
.a:hover{border-color:var(--ink);transform:rotate(-1.5deg)}
.a[aria-pressed="true"]{background:var(--ink);color:var(--paper);border-color:var(--ink);transform:rotate(-1.5deg)}
.a[aria-pressed="true"] small{color:var(--yuzu)}
/* filters */
.filters{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:4px 18px;align-items:center;padding-block:10px 14px;font-size:15px}
.filters .lead{font-family:var(--hand);font-size:20px;color:var(--muted);margin-right:2px}
.f{appearance:none;background:none;border:0;font:inherit;cursor:pointer;color:var(--ink);display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:7px;padding:4px 2px;font-weight:500}
.f i{width:11px;height:11px;border-radius:50%;background:var(--c);flex:0 0 auto}
.f[aria-pressed="true"]{text-decoration:underline wavy var(--c);text-underline-offset:6px;text-decoration-thickness:1.5px}
.f[aria-pressed="false"]{color:var(--muted);opacity:.6}
.halalf{margin-left:10px;padding-left:14px!important;border-left:1.5px dashed var(--rule)!important}
.f[aria-pressed="false"] i{background:transparent;box-shadow:inset 0 0 0 1.5px var(--c)}

/* main */
main{display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr) minmax(0,1fr);gap:48px;align-items:start}
@media (max-width:900px){main{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:32px}}
.mapwrap{position:sticky;top:calc(env(safe-area-inset-top,0px) + 20px);transform:rotate(-.8deg);margin-top:6px}
@media (max-width:900px){.mapwrap{position:relative;top:0;transform:none}}
.mapsheet{background:var(--sheet);padding:12px 12px 14px;box-shadow:0 1px 1px rgba(63,33,22,.08),0 14px 30px -18px rgba(63,33,22,.4)}
.mapwrap .tape{top:-12px;left:22px}
.mapwrap .tape.r{left:auto;right:30px;--tr:5deg}
svg.map{display:block;width:100%;height:auto;border:1px solid var(--rule)}
.mapcap{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:baseline;gap:10px;padding:10px 4px 0;flex-wrap:wrap}
.mapcap b{font-family:var(--hand);font-weight:700;font-size:22px}
.mapcap span{font-size:13px;color:var(--muted)}
.unzoom{appearance:none;font:inherit;font-size:13px;font-weight:700;cursor:pointer;border:1.5px solid var(--ink);background:var(--sheet);color:var(--ink);border-radius:6px;padding:3px 10px}
.unzoom:hover{background:var(--ink);color:var(--paper)}
.clu{cursor:pointer}.clu .b{transition:transform .2s;transform-box:fill-box;transform-origin:center}.clu:hover .b{transform:scale(1.12)}
.st{font-family:var(--hand);font-size:15px;fill:var(--ink)}
.lm{font-family:var(--hand);font-size:15px;fill:var(--ink)}
.stn{font-family:var(--hand);font-size:14px;fill:var(--muted)}
.pin{cursor:pointer}
.pin .b{transition:transform .2s;transform-box:fill-box;transform-origin:center}
.pin:hover .b,.pin.on .b{transform:scale(1.25)}
.pin.dim{opacity:.12;pointer-events:none}
.ml{font-family:var(--body);font-weight:500;font-size:10.5px;letter-spacing:.14em;text-transform:uppercase;fill:var(--muted)}
.wl{font-family:var(--hand);font-size:16px;fill:#5F87AE}

.entries{display:flex;flex-direction:column;min-width:0}
.entry{display:grid;grid-template-columns:150px minmax(0,1fr);gap:22px;padding-block:26px;border-bottom:1.5px dashed var(--rule);position:relative;cursor:pointer}
.entry:first-child{padding-top:4px}
@media (max-width:520px){.entry{grid-template-columns:110px minmax(0,1fr);gap:16px}}
.pola{background:var(--sheet);padding:7px 7px 30px;box-shadow:0 1px 1px rgba(63,33,22,.08),0 8px 18px -10px rgba(63,33,22,.45);transform:rotate(var(--r));position:relative;align-self:start;transition:transform .25s}
.entry:hover .pola,.entry.on .pola{transform:rotate(0deg) scale(1.03)}
.pola .tape{width:56px;height:18px;top:-9px;left:calc(50% - 28px)}
.pola .ph{aspect-ratio:1;max-width:100%;background:color-mix(in srgb,var(--c) 20%,var(--sheet));display:grid;place-items:center;overflow:hidden}
.pola .ph img{width:90%;height:90%;object-fit:contain}
.pola .ph{position:relative}
.pola .ph.photo img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover}
.pola .cap{position:absolute;left:0;right:0;bottom:4px;text-align:center;font-family:var(--hand);font-size:16px;color:var(--muted)}
.txt{min-width:0}
.txt .no{font-family:var(--display);font-size:15px;color:var(--c);letter-spacing:.04em}
.txt h3{font-family:var(--display);font-weight:400;font-size:clamp(24px,2.6vw,30px);line-height:1.05;margin:2px 0 4px;text-wrap:balance}
.txt h3 small{font-family:var(--jp);font-weight:500;font-size:13px;color:var(--muted);margin-left:6px;letter-spacing:.02em}
.meta{font-size:13.5px;color:var(--muted);margin:0 0 10px;display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:2px 10px}
.meta .c{color:var(--ink);font-weight:700;display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:6px}
.meta .c i{width:9px;height:9px;border-radius:50%;background:var(--c)}
.note{font-family:var(--hand);font-size:22px;line-height:1.25;margin:0 0 10px;color:var(--ink)}
.meta .halal{color:#4F7A1E;font-weight:700}
.meta .halal.mf{color:#8A7A2E}
.go{white-space:nowrap;display:inline-block;margin-top:2px;font-size:14px;font-weight:700;color:var(--shinkansen);text-decoration:none;border-bottom:1.5px solid currentColor}
.go:hover{color:var(--lantern)}
.go.book{margin-left:14px;color:var(--lantern)}
.also{margin:8px 0 0;font-size:13.5px;color:var(--muted)}
.also a{color:var(--ink);font-weight:500;text-decoration:underline dotted;text-underline-offset:3px}
.also a:hover{color:var(--lantern)}
.dontskip{display:inline-block;font-family:var(--hand);font-weight:700;font-size:19px;color:var(--lantern);transform:rotate(-3deg);margin-left:4px;position:relative}
.dontskip svg{position:absolute;left:-2px;right:-2px;bottom:-6px;width:calc(100% + 4px);height:10px}
.entry.on h3{text-decoration:underline;text-decoration-color:var(--yuzu);text-decoration-thickness:.28em;text-underline-offset:-.06em;text-decoration-skip-ink:none}
.empty{font-family:var(--hand);font-size:22px;color:var(--muted);padding:30px 0}

/* save */
.save{margin-top:80px;display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,.9fr) minmax(0,1.1fr);gap:40px;align-items:start}
@media (max-width:860px){.save{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:20px}}
.save h2,.about h2{font-family:var(--display);font-weight:400;font-size:clamp(34px,5vw,56px);line-height:.95;margin:6px 0 14px;text-wrap:balance}
.save .how{font-family:var(--hand);font-size:22px;line-height:1.3;margin:0}
.save .how b{color:var(--lantern)}
.save .mapimg{width:110px;transform:rotate(-10deg);margin-top:16px}
.tags{list-style:none;margin:0;padding:0}
.tags li{display:grid;grid-template-columns:auto minmax(0,1fr) auto;gap:14px;align-items:center;padding:14px 0;border-bottom:1.5px dashed var(--rule)}
.tags li:first-child{border-top:1.5px dashed var(--rule)}
.tags i{width:14px;height:14px;border-radius:50%;background:var(--c)}
.tags b{font-family:var(--display);font-weight:400;font-size:22px;line-height:1.1}
.tags b small{font-family:var(--body);font-weight:500;font-size:13px;color:var(--muted);margin-left:8px}
.tags a{font-weight:700;font-size:14px;text-decoration:none;background:var(--ink);color:var(--paper);padding:7px 14px;border-radius:6px;white-space:nowrap;transition:background .15s}
.tags a:hover{background:var(--lantern)}

/* about */
.about{margin-top:90px;display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr) 220px;gap:36px;align-items:center}
@media (max-width:760px){.about{grid-template-columns:1fr}}
.letter{position:relative;background:var(--sheet);padding:34px 34px 28px;transform:rotate(.6deg);box-shadow:0 1px 1px rgba(63,33,22,.08),0 16px 30px -20px rgba(63,33,22,.45);
  background-image:repeating-linear-gradient(transparent 0 33px,var(--rule) 33px 34px);background-position:0 18px}
.letter .tape{top:-12px;left:40%}
.letter p{font-family:var(--hand);font-size:23px;line-height:34px;margin:0 0 0;max-width:52ch}
.letter .sig{display:block;margin-top:14px;font-family:var(--hand);font-weight:700;font-size:28px;color:var(--lantern);transform:rotate(-3deg);transform-origin:left}
.about .cat2{width:200px;justify-self:center;transform:rotate(-6deg)}

/* footer */
footer{margin-top:90px;padding-top:28px;border-top:1.5px dashed var(--rule);display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr) auto;gap:20px;align-items:end}
footer .bye{font-family:var(--display);font-weight:400;font-size:clamp(56px,10vw,130px);line-height:.85;color:var(--lantern);margin:0}
footer .bye small{display:block;font-family:var(--hand);font-size:24px;color:var(--ink);margin-top:10px;letter-spacing:0}
footer .links{display:flex;flex-direction:column;align-items:flex-end;gap:4px;font-size:14px;color:var(--muted);text-align:right}
footer .links a{color:var(--ink);font-weight:700;text-decoration:none}
footer .links a:hover{color:var(--lantern)}
@media (max-width:640px){footer{grid-template-columns:1fr}footer .links{align-items:flex-start;text-align:left}}

/* apps page */
.top nav a.cur{background-size:100% 40%;font-weight:700}
.apphero{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:40px;align-items:center;padding-block:52px 34px;border-bottom:1.5px dashed var(--rule)}
@media (max-width:820px){.apphero{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:26px;padding-block:34px 24px}}
.apphero h1{font-family:var(--display);font-weight:400;font-size:clamp(46px,7vw,90px);line-height:.92;margin:8px 0 18px}
.apphero h1 .small{display:block;font-size:.42em;line-height:1.1;margin-top:.25em;color:var(--lantern)}
.apphero p{max-width:42ch;font-size:17px;margin:0}
.agroup{display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,.7fr) minmax(0,1.3fr);gap:36px;padding-block:34px;border-bottom:1.5px dashed var(--rule)}
@media (max-width:820px){.agroup{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:12px}}
.agroup h2{font-family:var(--display);font-weight:400;font-size:clamp(28px,3.4vw,40px);line-height:1;margin:4px 0 8px}
.agroup .why{font-family:var(--hand);font-size:21px;line-height:1.25;color:var(--muted);margin:0;max-width:30ch}
.agroup.halal h2{color:#4F7A1E}
.apps{display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:22px;min-width:0}
.app{display:grid;grid-template-columns:52px minmax(0,1fr);gap:16px;align-items:start}
.tile{width:52px;height:52px;border-radius:13px;display:grid;place-items:center;font-family:var(--display);font-size:24px;color:#fff;background:var(--c);transform:rotate(var(--r));box-shadow:0 6px 12px -8px rgba(63,33,22,.6)}
.tile.ico{background:var(--sheet);object-fit:cover;border:1.5px solid var(--rule)}
.app h3{font-family:var(--display);font-weight:400;font-size:23px;line-height:1.1;margin:0;display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;align-items:baseline;gap:4px 10px}
.app h3 small{font-family:var(--body);font-size:12px;font-weight:700;letter-spacing:.06em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--muted);border:1.5px solid var(--rule);border-radius:4px;padding:1px 7px}
.app p{margin:4px 0 0;font-size:15.5px}
.app .tip{font-family:var(--hand);font-size:20px;line-height:1.25;margin-top:6px}
.app a{font-size:14px;font-weight:700;color:var(--shinkansen);text-decoration:none;border-bottom:1.5px solid currentColor;display:inline-block;margin-top:6px}
.app a:hover{color:var(--lantern)}
.stores{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px;margin-top:10px}
.app a.store,.store{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:7px;margin:0;border:1.5px solid var(--ink);border-bottom-width:1.5px;border-radius:8px;padding:5px 12px 5px 9px;font-size:13.5px;font-weight:700;color:var(--ink);background:var(--sheet);text-decoration:none;transition:background .15s,color .15s}
.app a.store:hover{background:var(--ink);color:var(--paper)}
.store svg{width:15px;height:15px}
.store.off{border-style:dashed;color:var(--muted);font-weight:500}
.appnote{font-family:var(--hand);font-size:19px;color:var(--muted);margin:22px 0 0}
/* day trips page */
.trips{display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:30px;min-width:0}
.trip{position:relative;background:var(--sheet);padding:24px 24px 20px;transform:rotate(var(--r));box-shadow:0 1px 1px rgba(63,33,22,.08),0 14px 28px -18px rgba(63,33,22,.45)}
.trip .tape{top:-11px;left:44%}
.trip .th{display:flex;gap:12px;align-items:baseline}
.trip .tn{font-family:var(--display);font-size:20px;color:var(--lantern)}
.trip h3{font-family:var(--display);font-weight:400;font-size:clamp(24px,2.6vw,30px);line-height:1.05;margin:0;display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;align-items:baseline;gap:2px 10px}
.trip h3 small{font-family:var(--jp);font-size:14px;color:var(--muted)}
.trip .best{font-family:var(--hand);font-size:21px;line-height:1.25;margin:6px 0 12px;color:var(--shinkansen)}
.facts{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr));gap:10px 16px;margin:0 0 12px;padding:12px 0;border-block:1.5px dashed var(--rule)}
@media (max-width:620px){.facts{grid-template-columns:1fr}}
.facts dt{font-family:var(--hand);font-size:17px;color:var(--muted)}
.facts dd{margin:0;font-size:14.5px;line-height:1.35}
.trip p{margin:0 0 8px;font-size:15px;line-height:1.5}
.trip p b{font-weight:700}
.trip .hfood b{color:#4F7A1E}
.trip .tip{font-family:var(--hand);font-size:20px;line-height:1.25;margin-top:4px}
.trip .stores{margin-top:12px}
button.store{font:inherit;font-size:13.5px;font-weight:700;cursor:pointer}
.trip a.store,.trip button.store{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;border:1.5px solid var(--ink);border-radius:8px;padding:5px 12px;font-size:13.5px;font-weight:700;color:var(--ink);background:var(--sheet);text-decoration:none;transition:background .15s,color .15s}
.trip a.store:hover,.trip button.store:hover{background:var(--ink);color:var(--paper)}
@media (max-width:620px){.trip{transform:none;padding:20px 18px 16px}}
/* ---- phone layout ---- */
.tomap{display:none}
@media (max-width:640px){
  .hero{padding-block:22px 10px;gap:8px}
  .hero h1{font-size:clamp(42px,12vw,56px);margin:6px 0 14px}
  .hero p{font-size:16px}
  .hero p .turn{font-size:21px}
  .hero-side{display:flex;flex-direction:row-reverse;align-items:center;justify-content:center;gap:6px;min-height:0;width:100%}
  .hero-side .cat{width:150px;margin:0}
  .hero-side .note{position:static;font-size:19px;max-width:120px}
  .hero-side .note svg{width:52px;height:34px;margin:2px 0 0 54px;transform:rotate(-30deg) scaleY(-1)}
  .cities{gap:4px 6px;margin-inline:-16px;padding-inline:16px;scroll-snap-type:x proximity}
  .cities>*{scroll-snap-align:start;flex:0 0 auto}
  .areas,.filters{flex-wrap:nowrap;overflow-x:auto;scrollbar-width:none;margin-inline:-16px;padding-inline:16px;-webkit-overflow-scrolling:touch;mask-image:linear-gradient(90deg,#000 88%,transparent)}
  .areas::-webkit-scrollbar,.filters::-webkit-scrollbar,.cities::-webkit-scrollbar{display:none}
  .areas>*,.filters>*{flex:0 0 auto;white-space:nowrap}
  .filters{gap:4px 14px;padding-block:8px 10px}
  .search{padding-block:0 18px}
  .entry{grid-template-columns:96px minmax(0,1fr);gap:14px;padding-block:20px}
  .pola{padding:5px 5px 22px}
  .pola .cap{font-size:13px;bottom:2px}
  .txt h3{font-size:23px}
  .note{font-size:18.5px}
  .meta{font-size:12.5px}
  .tomap{display:flex;position:fixed;right:14px;bottom:calc(16px + env(safe-area-inset-bottom));z-index:50;align-items:center;gap:6px;background:var(--ink);color:var(--paper);border:0;border-radius:999px;padding:10px 16px;font:700 14px var(--body);box-shadow:0 8px 18px -6px rgba(63,33,22,.55);opacity:0;pointer-events:none;transform:translateY(10px);transition:opacity .2s,transform .2s}
  .tomap.show{opacity:1;pointer-events:auto;transform:none}
  .apphero h1{font-size:clamp(40px,12vw,54px)}
  .agroup{padding-block:24px}
}
@media (prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){*{animation:none!important;transition:none!important}.cityb svg path{stroke-dashoffset:0}}